It’s boat and RV season – check your batteries!

Boat and RV batteries deserve special concern. Here’s what you should know and do before you depend on them for fun.

#1 Thing to know: Used batteries are not as reliable or as performant as new batteries.

#2 Thing to know: If your battery is more than 3 months old, you have a used battery. That’s right. Your battery is sort of like a tire. It can go bad from wear (used up), age (deteriorates over time) or abuse (poor or faulty charging systems, left to discharge too long).

So, understanding that, and given that most outings might involve you being in a situation by yourself or far from help, what can you do?  Simple.  Test.

If you think your RV batteries are good to go for your planned trip.  Use test them ahead time. This doesn’t mean depending on someone’s battery meter. Why? Because believe it or not, other things can fail that may seem like that battery is the issue. But replacing your battery won’t fix that.

So, a week or two ahead of time. Pull your RV out and actually pretend to use it as you plan too (at least as far as your batteries are concerned). If you have a fridge, a microwave, entertainment, lights, etc, use them for the same period and way as you would intend to. If you don’t get the usage out of them in your parked location, you can’t expect things to magically get better when you use them in the wild. This should confirm that your batteries are holding to your needs and that your charging systems are working.

If it’s a boat, well you can’t run the motor like like you would in the water easily. But you can use the boat like you would when your motor is off (lights, entertainment or other electronics). If you can put water headphones on your test to at least run the motor for a short period, you can confirm that the charging system is working by measuring the voltage at the battery while the motor is running.  If all is good, it should be between 13.8 and 14.8 volts.

If you have a boat or RV that does not have a way to charge your batteries without a motor running, then the best thing you can do when it’s going to sit for more than a month unused, is to remove the battery, bring it into your garage or a covered area when you have a battery charger/maintainer and keep it there until it’s ready to use.

The more real you make your tests, the more real your answers will be. Play safe, have fun and remember Revolt Battery Exchange for your affordable recycled and new power needs.

How do we recover dead batteries?

Good question.  I’m sure you’ve seen lots of tricks on the internet.  Epson salt, aspirin, jumping the battery, using baking soda??, rinsing out the acid and replacing with fresh acid, cutting open the batteries and re-welding in plates, using various battery chargers, etc.

If we could find something better than what we currently use we would! Because the faster we can recover dead batteries and sell them, the better it makes our business.  But alas, we’ve not found anything even close to the effectiveness of what we use. So it is the best solution we know of at this time.

We also happen to be in a retail zoned area so anything industrial or hazardous wouldn’t be permitted here. If the battery has caps, we will top it off with distilled water. But after that, we hook them up to our machines and they do all the work electrically. We don’t cut open the batteries or add chemicals or rinse or any such thing.

“Really, some magic machine does this???” – yes. But of course, it’s not magic. It was developed over the course of many years by reviving almost 10,000 car and truck batteries.

We have many commercial grade ReVolt battery machines that work on the dead or weak batteries that our customers bring us and simply tell us when the batteries are ready to test or if the battery cannot be fixed.  If the batteries pass our tests then the batteries are graded and sold. Typically they can repair 65 to 80 percent of the batteries we feed them. For more information check here: revoltresearch.com

RV4V-1st-PowerOn

 

26 Year-old battery revived by Revolt Battery Exchange!

2018-05-03 16_58_57-00064.MTS - VLC media player
In April 2018, Interstate Batteries of the Sierra’s based in Carson City, Nevada, brought in a battery they claimed was 26 years old.  It came from a customer of theirs who turned it in for scrap.  Of course, it was completely dead.  In fact, it read -0.3 volts (slightly reversed). They were hoping we could revive it.  We did.

Here is a video of the amazing recovery and subsequent testing. The battery has been returned to Interstate Batteries.  Special thanks to Gary Krupp and Don Ornbaum of Interstate for giving us this challenge and their great support and products.

Short 2.5-minute version

15-minute version for non-believers.

5,000 Batteries Processed! March 15 2018

We opened our battery exchange store in Reno in August of 2016. We had a small stock of reconditioned batteries, that we sold for $25 each with an exchange. We had just a few battery processing machines which did about 7 batteries a day.

20160712_094210

20160726_171151

Now, in the 2nd week of March 2018,  we will be counting our 5,000th battery processed – over 85 tons! That means Reno is a little cleaner, and thousands of our customers have saved LOTS of money on car batteries!

20180110_103250

In that time since August of 2016, we’ve invested heavily in our proprietary battery processing machines and software. We have greatly improved our productivity and efficiency. We stock hundreds of reconditioned batteries giving our customers many choices.

ReVoltResearchLogo1

So we’re celebrating! If you like coffee, we’ll buy you a great cup of it!  Click this link. 🙂  Thanks to all of you who have helped to make this business a success!

Can I disconnect my battery while my car is running?

This is a common backyard mechanic technique to test if your alternator is working.  In theory, if your alternator is working and providing power to the car while charging your battery, then once the car is started, disconnecting the battery shouldn’t cause the engine to stop running.  If it does, then there’s a possibility that your alternator is not functioning, or a connection to it is not working or it is working intermittently.  HOWEVER!  Be aware that this test is not without risk to damaging your car electronics. If your alternator is malfunctioning and over charging your battery, disconnecting it may allow the alternator to provide an even higher voltage to your car electronics and potentially damage the electronics.  Also, if your alternator is providing power intermittently, it may cause the computer lock up producing other problems. Therefore, this test is safest if not performed at all.  You’re better to use a voltage meter and measure the voltage at the battery when the car is off and when it’s running.  In simple terms, if the voltage is higher when the car is running, then the alternator is providing at least some energy back to the battery, but that doesn’t mean that it’s working optimally. Get it tested if you believe there is a problem.

Warnings and Disclaimers

WARNINGS!!!

  1. Your batteries may contain SULFURIC ACID that is biologically harmful or your property. DO NOT POSITION THE BATTERY in any other position than the right-side-up position, or as recommended by the original manufacturer. If your battery is leaking, AVOID CONTACT with the battery if without the appropriate protective gear (goggles, gloves, etcs.) Always rinse immediately with water, if practical and consult poison control and hazardous materials agencies otherwise.   
  2. OBSERVE BATTERY POLARITY! Incorrect connection could seriously damage your vehicle’s electrical system, cause a fire and potentially harm you! Your battery has designators of “+” or “POS” to indicate the positive terminal, “-” or “NEG” to indicate the negative terminal.  Usually + or POS will connect to your red wire or connector with similar markings or a red color. The – or Neg will connect to your black wire or connector with similar markings or a black color. The black (negative) connection to your vehicle should also be in solid electrical contact with the chassis of your vehicle.
  3. AVOID SHORT CIRCUIT! Do not let your conductive (metal) tools make contact between the battery terminals (+ and -), or between Positive (+) terminal of the battery and car body or parts. Serious, harm, fire or electrical damage to your vehicle could occur otherwise. A recommended order to assist in safety for removing the battery is to remove the negative connection to the battery first then remove the positive. When installing a battery, connect the positive first, and the negative

Revolt Battery Exchange Disclaimer and Acceptance Policy:

  1. Other than for the replacement of the battery itself or equal value, Revolt Battery Exchange (dba ZTech4, LLC), its owners, employees and all other agents (collective party herein referred to as RBE), will not be responsible for any damages, harm, or troubles resulting or assumed to be the result of the installation or use of our batteries, regardless of the method and means. You do so at your own risk.
  2. All advice, information, recommendations, warnings, presentations, media and informational materials, etc. offered by RBE should be considered unqualified, apply any such provided information at your own risk and seek a second opinion.
  3. All materials, tools, areas or other resources offered by Revolt Battery Exchange should be considered unfit for your use without your own inspection and complete acceptance of the all the consequences and risks of applying or using such offered.
  4. If you do not accept and agree with this policy, return your products immediately before installing them, doing otherwise is the acknowledgement of your acceptance of these terms and policies.

 

Yes we buy batteries!

But we do have limits based on our space available and processing backlog.

AS OF 11/12/2018:
We pay $8 each (FULL PRICE) for your first 5 batteries and $6 (REDUCED PRICE) for each battery after that, per day.

For full price, batteries must be:

  • Car, Truck, Marine/RV deep-cycle, golf cart type lead acid types.
  • Not cracked, leaking, or having any holes.
  • Not completely dried out, and has its filler caps and is a typical car or truck battery.
  • We may offer a lower scrap price for batteries which do not meet these criteria.
  • 6 or more batteries at one time may require a valid ID.

If you have any questions, please call us before showing up with a load of batteries.  775-525-3003.

Why do batteries seem to die when it’s cold?

It’s simple really, the colder your engine is, the more power it takes to crank it as the oil thickens. So it takes more power to crank it, and often longer cranking times as well as the motor is more difficult to start when it’s colder. And the colder your battery is, the less power it can give. This is why batteries usually die when the weather turns cold. But did you know that a battery which seems useless when it’s cold can often work fine when it’s warm again? If you can’t afford to replace your battery, you might be able to wait it out, just be sure that if you run your battery down that you charge it again ASAP. The longer it sits discharged, the more damaged it becomes.