We opened our doors in August of 2016, this month marks our 2 year anniversary! Thank you to all our wonderful customers who continue to bring their business to us – we wouldn’t be here without you!!!! Here’s what we looked like 2 years ago!
In April 2018, Interstate Batteries of the Sierra’s based in Carson City, Nevada, brought in a battery they claimed was 26 years old. It came from a customer of theirs who turned it in for scrap. Of course, it was completely dead. In fact, it read -0.3 volts (slightly reversed). They were hoping we could revive it. We did.
Here is a video of the amazing recovery and subsequent testing. The battery has been returned to Interstate Batteries. Special thanks to Gary Krupp and Don Ornbaum of Interstate for giving us this challenge and their great support and products.
Short 2.5-minute version
15-minute version for non-believers.
We opened our battery exchange store in Reno in August of 2016. We had a small stock of reconditioned batteries, that we sold for $25 each with an exchange. We had just a few battery processing machines which did about 7 batteries a day.
Now, in the 2nd week of March 2018, we will be counting our 5,000th battery processed – over 85 tons! That means Reno is a little cleaner, and thousands of our customers have saved LOTS of money on car batteries!
In that time since August of 2016, we’ve invested heavily in our proprietary battery processing machines and software. We have greatly improved our productivity and efficiency. We stock hundreds of reconditioned batteries giving our customers many choices.
So we’re celebrating! If you like coffee, we’ll buy you a great cup of it! Click this link. Thanks to all of you who have helped to make this business a success!
This is a common backyard mechanic technique to test if your alternator is working. In theory, if your alternator is working and providing power to the car while charging your battery, then once the car is started, disconnecting the battery shouldn’t cause the engine to stop running. If it does, then there’s a possibility that your alternator is not functioning, or a connection to it is not working or it is working intermittently. HOWEVER! Be aware that this test is not without risk to damaging your car electronics. If your alternator is malfunctioning and over charging your battery, disconnecting it may allow the alternator to provide an even higher voltage to your car electronics and potentially damage the electronics. Also, if your alternator is providing power intermittently, it may cause the computer lock up producing other problems. Therefore, this test is safest if not performed at all. You’re better to use a voltage meter and measure the voltage at the battery when the car is off and when it’s running. In simple terms, if the voltage is higher when the car is running, then the alternator is providing at least some energy back to the battery.
- Your batteries may contain SULFURIC ACID that is biologically harmful or your property. DO NOT POSITION THE BATTERY in any other position than the right-side-up position, or as recommended by the original manufacturer. If your battery is leaking, AVOID CONTACT with the battery if without the appropriate protective gear (goggles, gloves, etcs.) Always rinse immediately with water, if practical and consult poison control and hazardous materials agencies otherwise.
- OBSERVE BATTERY POLARITY! Incorrect connection could seriously damage your vehicle’s electrical system, cause a fire and potentially harm you! Your battery has designators of “+” or “POS” to indicate the positive terminal, “-” or “NEG” to indicate the negative terminal. Usually + or POS will connect to your red wire or connector with similar markings or a red color. The – or Neg will connect to your black wire or connector with similar markings or a black color. The black (negative) connection to your vehicle should also be in solid electrical contact with the chassis of your vehicle.
- AVOID SHORT CIRCUIT! Do not let your conductive (metal) tools make contact between the battery terminals (+ and -), or between Positive (+) terminal of the battery and car body or parts. Serious, harm, fire or electrical damage to your vehicle could occur otherwise. A recommended order to assist in safety for removing the battery is to remove the negative connection to the battery first then remove the positive. When installing a battery, connect the positive first, and the negative
Revolt Battery Exchange Disclaimer and Acceptance Policy:
- Other than for the replacement of the battery itself or equal value, Revolt Battery Exchange (dba ZTech4, LLC), its owners, employees and all other agents (collective party herein referred to as RBE), will not be responsible for any damages, harm, or troubles resulting or assumed to be the result of the installation or use of our batteries, regardless of the method and means. You do so at your own risk.
- All advice, information, recommendations, warnings, presentations, media and informational materials, etc. offered by RBE should be considered unqualified, apply any such provided information at your own risk and seek a second opinion.
- All materials, tools, areas or other resources offered by Revolt Battery Exchange should be considered unfit for your use without your own inspection and complete acceptance of the all the consequences and risks of applying or using such offered.
- If you do not accept and agree with this policy, return your products immediately before installing them, doing otherwise is the acknowledgement of your acceptance of these terms and policies.
But we do have limits based on our space available and processing backlog.
AS OF 11/12/2018:
We pay $8 each (FULL PRICE) for your first 5 batteries and $6 (REDUCED PRICE) for each battery after that, per day.
For full price, batteries must be:
- Car, Truck, Marine/RV deep-cycle, golf cart type lead acid types.
- Not cracked, leaking, or having any holes.
- Not completely dried out, and has its filler caps and is a typical car or truck battery.
- We may offer a lower scrap price for batteries which do not meet these criteria.
- 6 or more batteries at one time may require a valid ID.
If you have any questions, please call us before showing up with a load of batteries. 775-525-3003.
If you’re looking for our store, some of these may help.
It’s simple really, the colder your engine is, the more power it takes to crank it as the oil thickens. So it takes more power to crank it, and often longer cranking times as well as the motor is more difficult to start when it’s colder. And the colder your battery is, the less power it can give. This is why batteries usually die when the weather turns cold. But did you know that a battery which seems useless when it’s cold can often work fine when it’s warm again? If you can’t afford to replace your battery, you might be able to wait it out, just be sure that if you run your battery down that you charge it again ASAP. The longer it sits discharged, the more damaged it becomes.
If the motor is cranking but not starting.
- This is probably not related to the battery, connections, or your charging system. You will have to look elsewhere for what other things to look at like fuel, ignition, etc.
If the motor does not crank (and is not SEIZED UP):
- Battery not holding a charge. It worked when you drove it home but wouldn’t start in the morning.
- Bad cables or connections. Often corrosion and loose connectors are the cause of intermittent failure. But if the cycle is consistent, like it happens every morning after being fine at night or sooner, then check the other points below.
- Wiggle the terminals, make sure your connections are tight. You should not be able to rotate the connector or lift it off.
- Make sure the connections are clean – use 1/4 cup baking soda mixed with 2 cups of warm water and a brush to clean corrosion off of the battery terminals. Repeat until they are shiny clean. Or use a wire brush. Both the battery terminals, and the terminal connectors themselves should be clean.
- Make sure the wires are in good shape and not “hanging on by a thread” so to speak. If after market terminal connectors have been added, make sure that the wire attached to the connector has not corroded out.
- Something being left on in your vehicle is discharging the battery faster than normal. Often this is from a bad sensor (like trunk open, doom lights, etc.) or from something keeping the computer awake or a problem with the computer, or after-market electronics (stereo, etc.).
- The test for this is dependent on the average amount of time you’re experiencing between the battery being charged (like right after your vehicle has run for 10 minutes or more) and the time it takes to no longer have the power to start the car (like overnight). For example, if you find it is always dead in the morning, disconnect one of the battery terminal connectors after you shut the car off. Then wait the approximate amount of time before the vehicle would normally not start (like overnight). Then reconnect the terminal and attempt to start the car. If the car doesn’t crank and start up as expected, then it’s likely that something in the car is discharging the battery. If not, the battery is discharging itself and it’s time to replace it. Further troubleshooting to find the problem with the car can be exhausting and frustrating if it’s not something obvious or something you suspect.
- Your battery is not being charged properly by your car. Alternators typically wear out after 80,000 miles, and most die before they hit 120,000 miles. If your car has to be jumped every time to start it, then the battery is so weak that it can’t hold enough charge to start the car just minutes after turning the car off, or something is wrong in the charging system, most likely the alternator.
- This method requires a volt meter, the next method does not but is very dangerous and could lead to serious harm to you and or your vehicle if you don’t know what you’re doing. With your engine running, measure the voltage across your battery terminals with the engine running. If the voltage is above 13.5, that is a good sign. Reving the engine should not cause a change of more than a volt. However, when you turn the engine off, the voltage should fall below the point it was at when the engine was running (typically between 12 and 13 volts)
- This method does not require a meter BUT IS DANGEROUS TO YOU AND YOUR CAR and is not recommended. While the car is running, disconnect the negative side of the battery, a ” – ” mark and usually a black wire, NOT THE RED ONE ” + ” (for safety reasons). If the engine continues to run, then it is likely that the charging system works and it’s probably time to replace your battery.
It’s important to note that intermittent or weak connections can make diagnosis difficult as sometimes everything works fine and other times it doesn’t. The older your car is, the more likely that connection problems can exist. Alternators can sometimes produce a half power condition where they produce enough power to run the engine without a battery connected (once started) but not enough power to properly charge the battery. This is usually a problem with the regulator or, alternator brushes that are about to go out and are making a intermittent connection but rapidly.
Finally, a bad regulator in your alternator can sometimes result in drastic overcharging of your battery which can utterly kill the battery within days. Boiling over of the battery and a rotten egg smell (toxic) can sometimes accompany this condition.
We sincerely hope this information is useful to you. If you have any comments, please feel free to make them.
With tons of batteries in stock, we offer more GUARANTEED reconditioned car and truck batteries than anyone in Reno! Call or See us – conveniently located for fast and easy access. We also will buy your dead batteries (Click here for current pricing) (batteries cannot be cracked or leaking).